Mmmm... huevos rancheros

Made this for lunch and had to take a picture. It was awesome.

Momofuku (Shoto)

190 University Avenue

Toronto, ON

 

Certainly, the expansion of David Chang’s Momofuku empire to Toronto has not been without its share of breathless hype. Chang is clearly a talented guy with his own rather effective aesthetic, to say nothing of great food; you don’t wildly succeed in a market as cutthroat as New York City without having some serious mojo. The announcement that he would be coming to town has come on a wave of similar announcements from other well-known culinary figures – we already have Scott Conant’s outpost of Scarpetta in the Thompson, for better or for worse, and we will be seeing Daniel Boulud putting his stamp on the glittery new Four Seasons in Yorkville very soon. Me, I’ve been pretty gleefully anticipating the opening of the local Momofuku chapter for a while now, noting the details as they trickled in on social media; the basic setup (3 restaurants, one bar, adjacent to the new Shangri-La), the names (Nikai, Daisho, Shoto, and a copy of New York’s Noodle Bar) and the specific details (Nikai – the bar, Daisho – the a la carte/large format place, Shoto – the prix fixe counter a la Ko). Finally, reservations became available. I decided when I was in New York in June to forgo dining at Ko and Ssam Bar in favour of trying the Toronto restaurants, and my first inclination was to choose the prix fixe, given my enthusiasm for these types of meals. So it was that I was able to secure a 6:00 solo reservation at Shoto on a date not long after the first service through the online reservation system (which was not as difficult as I suspected it might be).

Arriving at the restaurant (a “glass cube in the heart of Toronto”, according to the website, which seems a reasonable if somewhat fantastical description), I navigated past the line for Noodle Bar and was whisked upstairs by the staff to the third floor host, who asked me if I had a copy of my confirmation (I did not; note that they will ask for this if you are planning to dine there, but in the end it didn’t seem to be a problem). I was taken and seated at the counter, which is in a corner of the floor behind a half-wall separating it from Daisho which takes up the remainder of the space. I was the first to arrive for the evening and was greeted by Chef de Cuisine Mitch Bates and Sous Chef Peter Jensen, who were prepping for the evening’s service. As other diners started to trickle in, I was offered a delicious, warm and buttery roll to start the evening’s festivities.

Drink options were outlined at this point. There is a full pairing, which includes a beverage pairing with each course, a short pairing with every other course, and a brief but interesting a la carte wine list. Not one to do anything in half-measures, I opted for the full pairing, and in short order the amuse courses started to arrive, with a sparkling non-vintage chardonnay blend, Tissot “Cremant” from the Jura region of France poured as an accompaniment. The first amuse was a smoked trout in a cauliflower puree, and given my predilection for anything smoked it’s not surprising I found this very tasty, with the acidity of the bubbly cutting nicely through the richness of the fish.

The second amuse was a lovely and sweet corn soup with a hit of what I thought was sriracha in the bottom but evidently was some sort of Korean hot sauce. A sprig of cilantro gave the dish a bit of a Mexican feel. Again, the sparkling wine was a perfect foil.

It was at this point that I started to take note of the music being played. Over the course of the evening I would hear selections from Wilco, Neil Young, Stereolab, the XX, The National, My Bloody Valentine, Lou Reed, and others, all of which I loved – it was almost as if my iPod had been hijacked by the Shoto team. The staff was digging it too – I was quietly singing along to Arcade Fire’s Neighbourhood #1, only to look over at Chef Bates doing the same. When Ace Frehley’s “New York Groove” came gleefully stomping through the restaurant’s sound system (Chang’s shout out to his home base, no doubt) I’m sure I was grinning like an idiot, because it just felt, well, so damned right. Jensen confided to me that Chang spends a pretty fair chunk of time tweaking the playlist to get it exactly the way he wants it. I, for one, certainly appreciated the effort, though admittedly if your tastes run to Chopin or Debussy you may not be as appreciative.

The first course was described as “fluke, caper, dill, turnip”, and was actually composed of a lovely and clean crudo of fluke with crispy onion, sprigs of dill, thinly sliced raw turnip, and a creamy sauce which ended up being horseradish based. Normally I’m not a big fan of crudo, but this worked beautifully, the slight bite of the horseradish providing a great counterpoint to the mildness of the fish and the onions a further layer of complexity. It was probably the best crudo dish I’ve ever had, and was paired with a 2010 Domaine du Poujol “Pico” from the Languedoc in France, which added a great citrus note complementing the fish.

Course number two, “sepia, tomato, harissa”, was tender, sweet cuttlefish, sepia being the Greek term for both the cuttlefish and its ink. The presentation included lots of flavors on the plate evoking the Mediterranean and specifically North Africa, with blanched plump cherry tomatoes sans skin, and the harissa fried into little croutons of couscous which provided this incredible explosive burst of cumin and coriander and spice when you bit into them. Hidden at the bottom of the dish was a small smear of cuttlefish ink. Looking back on the meal as a whole I think this was my favorite course of the night; inventive yet entirely balanced. It was paired with an Italian white from Friuli, Tocai Fruliano I Clivi, which had a nice minerality made for drinking with seafood.

On to course number three, “daikon, plum, Brussels sprouts, curry”, which consisted of a braised piece of daikon in a mild curry with roasted leaves of Brussels sprouts over the top. The sprouts were the star of the plate for me, with a nutty roasted flavor that really carried the dish, lifting the mild flavor of the daikon and light curry spice. On paper, this is one of those combinations that would ordinarily leave one scratching one’s head a bit, but it really worked well. It was paired with a sake, a house Junmai from Kazoeman in Gifu, Japan. Again, I didn’t think this would work with Brussels sprouts, but it did, with a surprising sweet richness that stood up to the nuttiness.

The fourth course, “egg, dashi, horseradish, ikura” was one of only a couple of courses which didn’t totally work for me over the course of the evening. I found that the egg really got lost in the overwhelming umami of the dashi broth, but I did enjoy the textural counterpoint between the creamy egg and the fishy pop of the ikura, and while it wasn’t a total home run, it was still pretty tasty. The pairing was with a sparkling rose from the Loire valley, Agnes et Rene Mosse “Moussamoussettes”. It was slightly sweet with plenty of acidity to temper the umami flavours in the dish, and a lovely fruity nose.

The next few offerings, by contrast, were stunners. “Spaghetti, nori, sardine, lumpfish roe” was a dish of perfectly cooked spaghetti in a savory, peppery, lightly oceanic sauce, with intensely salty and flavorful fried sardines that were phenomenally tasty.  This was also poured with one of my favorites, a 2011 Nigl “Gartling” Gruner Veltliner, with abundant apple, stone fruit, and a slight pepper note. Gruners are always food friendly and this wine is no exception.

“Lobster, tandoor, lemon, fava” was buttery lobster tail cooked perfectly with tandoor spices, an intense puree of lemon, and fava beans, which are normally an ingredient I find a bit boring but within the context of the dish their delicate, spring-like flavor was very nice. The wine poured with this one was the best of the night, a 2009 Viognier from Stratus Wines in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It was a monster of a wine, buttery and rich and nicely oaked with great fruit and good acid. I have some of the Stratus wines in my cellar and quite like them; somehow I have missed this one over my trips there, and they are currently sold out but if they ever offer it again I will be getting a case posthaste.

Forgot to take a picture of this one but there's a great shot at Paul Manson's (aka Taylor Fladgate's) blog at: http://taylorfladgate40906.wordpress.com/#jp-carousel-6784

“King oyster mushroom, macadamia, barley” was a gorgeously earthy mushroom covered in a macadamia foam and served over creamy barley grains. I noted an interesting citrus note which provided a refreshing contrast to the earth/nut/butter flavors in the dish; when asked, Chef Jensen volunteered that there was indeed some lemon in there (“a little surprise at the bottom”, as he put it). The first beer pairing of the night was poured with it, Asahi Black Lager, which tasted more like a stout and as one would expect married well with the hearty taste of the mushroom.

The final course before dessert was “veal cheek, green chili, Sichuan”. The piece of veal cheek was cooked sous vide and was sublimely tender; however, I would have liked a bit more spice on the plate, as the chili was fairly mild for my tastes. My server told me that about one in twenty of these chilies (I forget the exact variety) really blasts someone with heat. I certainly didn’t get one of those. I did like the wine, a Norman Hardie 2010 Pinot Noir from Prince Edward County and one which I’ve had several times.

Again, picture forgotten (the drink getting to me) but a great one: http://taylorfladgate40906.wordpress.com/#jp-carousel-6788

The dessert courses began with “banana, cashew, mint, gula jawa”, which was paired with an ale from Bellwoods Brewery in Toronto called Lost River.  I wondered to myself how this could possibly work, but it did, and the thing that actually tied the two together was the roasted sesame flavor in the dish which matched well with the malty, slightly nutty, almost toffee like taste of the ale.

Finally, the last course of the night was “hootenanny, orange, maple” and was described as a sort of breakfast for dessert: a small, light, delicious griddle cake with flavors of sausage and cinnamon, and maple ice cream with a bit of candied orange. I found it a very unusual and creative way to end the meal. It was paired with a sparkling rose, a Bugey-Cerdon from Patrick Bottex, which was refreshing and low in alcohol (appreciated as I had by this time of the night had rather a lot to drink).

I truly enjoyed my meal here and will be very interested to see where David Chang’s staff will take Shoto in the future. I plan on probably coming back about every six months or so just to see how it evolves. The meal was not cheap; $150 for the tasting plus $80 for the wine pairings, however I felt it was worth it and the cost was certainly in line with similar places I’ve been to. I can only surmise that having such a place on the Toronto culinary landscape will be a good thing, and as innovation tends to beget innovation we Toronto diners should all be winners.

Annisa

13 Barrow Street

New York City

No pictures with this one, as the lighting in the restaurant was too low for me to get even passable shots with my phone (I don’t like to use a flash), so you’ll have to rely on my purple prose and your own vivid imaginations.

After a day of sometimes tedious conferencing in Midtown I made my way to Anita Lo’s little jewelbox of a restaurant in the West Village as night started to creep across the city. I had heard some very good things about the Asian-influenced French cuisine here and was greeted warmly as I entered a low-lit space with minimalist stylings and lively bar at the front.  Led to my table at the back, I was asked the usual questions by a server about whether this was my first time at the restaurant and whether I had any questions about the menu. I had already decided I was going to indulge in the seven course chef’s tasting, where the courses are essentially left to the whims of Chef Lo (they also offer a five course tasting).  As water and bread were brought to the table, I sat trying to cultivate the “man of mystery” aura I generally try to project when dining alone in a mostly candle-lit restaurant (whether I succeeded in this I can’t say, but neighboring tables did ask me about what I was eating and what I thought of it, a common occurrence, I’ve found).

An amuse, a tartelette of chicken liver mousse, was the first thing to arrive. This was a great bite to start things off, flaky pastry and iron-y, minerally flavor balanced with a slightly sweet component which I couldn’t identify.

The first course proper was a crudo of fluke with black lime and radishes, including a large clean tasting piece of daikon radish. While nice enough and well prepared, I’m not a huge fan of crudo and I would have liked a bit more citrus on the plate. It wasn’t that the dish was bad at all, it just wasn’t really to my taste. It was paired with a Chateau de la Gravelle Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2010, which was a nice accompaniment with its melon and citrus on the palate and tangy acidity.

Up next was a Shanghai style soup dumpling with jicama topped with a gorgeous piece of seared foie gras. This is a signature dish here and was just fantastic. I was instructed to pick the dumpling up with the chopsticks provided and bite a corner of the dumpling, and then sort of drink the contents. I did so and was rewarded with a flood of gingery, garlicky, vinegary goodness, with the jicama adding a nice crunch and the foie a delicious richness. The wine paired with the dumpling was a Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett 2010, which was very floral on the nose, and off-dry with citrus and honey notes balanced with good acid. Rieslings go well with just about everything (that’s why I love them so much) and this was no exception.

Then, a lovely, perfectly cooked filet of sable, marinated in miso, with a piece of silken tofu in a bonito broth. This was gorgeous and savory, with the buttery flavor of the fish perfectly complementing the intense taste of the broth and the silken tofu with its crispy outside adding a wonderful textural element. This dish was paired with a sake, Wakatake Junmai Daiginjo Onikoroshi which had a clean, silky smooth, and slightly sweet taste.

A slow-cooked, hickory smoked wild king salmon was next, served with black truffle and white asparagus. Notwithstanding the fact that I tend to be in love with any food which is smoked, the fish was unbelievably flaky and delicious, and the earthy truffle and tender asparagus worked really well with it. It’s normally difficult to pair a wine with asparagus, but given the other elements of the dish the proffered wine worked well. I was delighted that the chosen wine was a Zweigelt, Heinrich Blauer 2008 to be exact. I find Austrian reds don’t really get their due, and this was lively and fresh with great spice and fruit flavors, along with some floral notes.

The final main of the evening was a beautiful, fatty piece of Wagyu beef with escargots and Alba mushrooms. The vaguely oceanic taste of the escargots with the beef evoked a surf and turf, and garlic chives and the earthy mushrooms gave the dish a nice heft. The pairing with this one was a Lirac, Domaine La Lorentine 2009. I love Rhone reds as a general rule, and the minerally, earthy, rustic taste of the wine was perfect with the dish.

As I mentioned in previous posts, I am a cheese fanatic, so when the cheese course came I dug in with gusto. The cheese was arranged around the plate in a clockwise fashion, from mildest to boldest. Several sheep’s milk cheeses from various regions started the plate, but the cheeses which really took my fancy were the strongest ones, which included a very soft Spanish “wedding cheese” which had a fantastic, almost uric tang, a deep, salty, and flavorful hard cheddar from Scotland, and a blue cheese from Oregon which ranked among the best cheeses I have ever had. There was a white port paired with the course and the cheeses were served with crispy bread and raisins on the vine.

Finally, dessert. Let me preface this by saying that this was the single best thing I ate on my entire trip to New York (a trip which included dining at EMP, Casa Mono, The Modern, Atera, Minetta Tavern, and Babbo, among other places, so this is pretty high praise). A basket of butterscotch and pecan beignets was set before me. I bit into one, and I swear, the angels started singing. Nutty, sweet, crispy, perfectly salty, with sweet, warm, caramelly butterscotch inside, I got to the last one and almost wept because I didn’t want them to be gone (I’ll admit to sitting and staring at it for awhile before finally devouring it). It was paired with a Muscat, but honestly, I was so blown away by the beignets that I don’t remember anything about the wine. One of my servers told me, “Chef Lo describes them as a life changing experience.”

Hell, yes. I would (nay, will) come back to this restaurant just to taste them again.

Finally, a plate of mignardises, including pineapple ice on a toothpick, candied ginger, and chocolate mint truffles, was an excellent way to end the night. I was taken back to the surprisingly tiny kitchen to express my appreciation to the staff before heading off into the night. This was a great meal and I was well taken care of. I really enjoyed the French/Asian flavors of Chef Lo’s cuisine, which reminded me of benu in San Francisco (another great meal I was privileged to have) although I found the French influences a little more prevalent at Annisa. And oh, those beignets!

Atera

77 Worth Street

New York City

Behind a nondescript doorway in TriBeCa, something extraordinary is happening.

I won’t lie; this was possibly the most anticipated meal of my recent New York City trip, even more so than Eleven Madison Park. I had booked my seat 2 months prior based on some of the early buzz Atera was getting, and the 4-star review doled out by Adam Platt in New York Magazine only served to ratchet up the expectations. I had read the blogs, seen the pictures, heard the raves, and now I was here, ready to be astonished (or ripe for disappointment, I suppose).

The room was as described in the treatises I had read; smallish space, rectangular stone counter behind which the kitchen worked, focus on natural materials, table in the corner underneath a living wall of plants. As I was seated in the middle of the long section of the counter, it seemed to me that those already present were having an awfully good time, based on the animated conversation and the expressions on the faces of those tasting Matt Lightner’s food. It so happened that I originally had a reservation for 9:30 PM; the restaurant had phoned me earlier in the day to ask if an 8PM seating might be preferable (it was, and I’m rather glad I took them up on it, given that the meal ended up being over 4 hours long). The 8PM seating meant that as a solo diner, and beginning between the normal 6:30 and 9:30 seatings, I was out of lockstep with the rest of the room with respect to the dishes offered.  Nonetheless, a sense of community prevailed as those around me were happy to comment on their own experiences (albeit, 2 and a half hours prior) with the food I was being served.

As I did with EMP, I opted to start the meal with bubbles - in this case, a Raventos i Blanc “L’Hereu de Nit” Cava Rosado by Sant Sadurn i D’Anoia. It was lovely and dry to off dry with some toast and pear notes. As I sat there sipping a rapid fire procession of amuse courses started to arrive and Chef Lightner came over and said good evening. Lightner’s cuisine has a definite modernist slant and there are some clear influences from his time at Noma and Mugaritz. Many of the dishes served were presented in such a way as to reflect nature in its various guises.

A beer and cheese macaron on a dusting of powdered hops was the first to arrive. I should note that as the amuse courses were considered “finger food”, no utensils were provided to eat them with, so I picked up the chilly spheroid and popped it into my mouth. I didn’t get much beer flavor from it, but it was cool and palate refreshing with a slight aftertaste from the cheese.

Next, a flax seed cookie. It was earthy and nutty tasting, with a slightly firm texture.

A crispy fried sunchoke with a buttermilk puree followed. It had a taste something like a potato but deeper and was very chewy. The buttermilk added a smooth, creamy note.

Next was a “lobster roll” which was actually delicious buttery lobster between two pieces of light and fluffy meringue.

Then, a horseradish parfait. This was a real mind bender for me – the frozen parfait seemed to suggest to my brain a sweet taste in the offing, but dissolved in a tangy, horseradish-y kick, creating a jarring sort of cognitive dissonance. I loved it.

The final few “snacks” as they were referred to by my server, had a theme in that they were all exercises in clever mimicry. These are sort of becoming a signature at Atera and I had seen pictures of them in several reports, but it was interesting to be faced with them on the plate.

Included in this ensemble of offerings was a crispy malt bread that was served on a flat stone, looked like a piece of tree bark, and had a roasted and slightly bitter flavor, a rich and minerally “peanut” made from foie gras, a creamy and garlicky “quail egg” which was actually an aioli based emulsion bound with xanthan gum, and a “razor clam” – with a perfectly created edible “shell” of hollowed out baguette painted with squid ink and containing raw clam and a clam emulsion (somehow I missed taking a photo of this one, but as it’s been widely talked about there are multiple photos online).

“Any shells in your teeth?” asked Chef Lightner with a grin as he whisked the plate away.

Finally, the snacks concluded with a lichen crisp. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this - it started as salty and when it dissolved on my tongue it left the impression of a forest after a spring rain. It was an exceptional way to end the amuse courses and left me gleefully awaiting the main dishes.

The first of these was a dish which included lumpfish roe in a sourdough mash topped with a gorgeous panoply of herbs and flowers. Chef Lightner explained that the lumpfish roe is used a lot in Nordic cuisine, but that these particular roe were harvested off the North American coast and provided by local fishermen.

“You spread them out on a table and they roll around like marbles,” he said.

The dish itself was stunning, with the herbal component adding a different taste with each bite, and I loved the fishy pop of the roe. The sourdough mash combined with the roe evoked a smorrebrød and I suspect this was some of the Noma influence in Chef Lightner’s cooking showing through. It was paired with a Camille Savès “Carte Blanche” Premier Cru Champagne, which had green apple, ginger, and yeast notes, and was a very nice accompaniment.

I was fascinated by the next dish, which included green almonds with lily buds and fresh almond milk. The raw almonds had a great crunch and a light, nutty, almost cherry-like taste, and the almond milk was smooth and had a slight acrid bite, presumably from the lily buds. A skin made from boiled cow’s milk was draped over the dish and added a creamy texture. The pairing with this dish was really interesting – it was a sherry, Equipo Navazos La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada no 30 “Capataz Rivas”. The sherry was similar in style to an Amontillado, and the nuttiness and toffee/caramel notes worked perfectly with this course.

Following this was a dish of diver scallops marinated in gin botanicals and served with pickled green tomatoes. The scallops were clean tasting and sweet with a hint of juniper, with the tomatoes providing a slightly acidic counterpoint.  This was paired with a Kamoizumi Komekome “Happy Bride” Sake from Hiroshima which was delicate with some sweet and tart flavors and was served in a very interesting cubic vessel made from wood.

Up next was a dish of lovely, sweet shredded peeky-toe crab with some sugar snap peas on a gelée of wild ginger and tapioca. Again, an amazing mix of tastes and textures were to be found here.  A Loire Valley white, François Chidaine “Clos Habert” Montlouis 2005, was served with this, and was slightly off dry with some nice acidity and melon/pineapple/herbal notes. The same wine also paired with “noodles”, the next course, which was a ramen like dish containing a dissolvable packet of herbs, into which a rich chicken broth was poured. The noodles were chewy and had a slight oceanic flavor.

“Have you figured it out yet?” said one of the servers.

“Squid?” I guessed, and was rewarded with a nod. I could only smile and shake my head.

By this time I had struck up a conversation with the couple from Brooklyn next to me about our mutual love of fine dining. The kitchen noticed this and slowed the pace down for awhile, which impressed me; it showed me that they were paying careful attention. I found the atmosphere of Atera to be quite convivial – the counter seating makes for easy conversation, especially as a solo diner, and the soundtrack of classic rock mixed in with some folk made the experience seem a lot less stuffy than it maybe could have been (one of the servers caught me softly singing along to “Man of Constant Sorrow” and shot me a wry smile).

When dinner resumed it was with my favorite savory course of the evening – a trio of earthy, meaty morels stuffed with boudin in a pine nut gravy. It was served with a very unusual wine; a dry Tokaji, Királyudvar “Sec” 2009, from Hungary. I’m used to the Tokaji dessert wines, which I’ve had a few times. This wine had some of the same floral qualities of Tokaju Aszu but was also citrusy and minerally. The citrus notes were particularly good with the pine nuts in the dish. This wine was also paired with one of Atera’s signature dishes, the beet ember with trout roe and uni and lobster sauce. The flavor of the beet was incredibly deep and earthy and the crustacean sauce was cheesy with subtle ocean flavors.

Atera’s bread and butter are amazing – the roll here is basted in pork fat and the butter is made with Winnemere cheese rind and is the best I have ever tasted.

Next was a very delicate halibut served with young garlic and whey, with daisy flowers sprinkled liberally on top. This was ethereally light, with the garlic only providing a slight heft. The pairing was with a C.H. Berres “Ürziger Würzgarten” Riesling Auslese 1997 – this delighted me as I am a huge fan of Riesling in general and especially Rieslings from the Mosel region. There were great stone fruit qualities in this one, with nice acid balance and a hint of petrol.

Then came veal sweetbreads in a savory toffee. This was gorgeously rich and delicious, with the toffee enhancing the delicate flavor of the meat, and was great texturally. The dish was served with a Marsala from Sicily, Marco di Bartoli Vigna La Miccia 5 Anni. This was fantastic, especially with the toffee, due to the great caramel notes in the wine, and was slightly oily with a long finish.

Finally, the savory courses ended with one of my favorite things, a fatty and unctuous slab of Wagyu ribeye, topped with raw mushrooms. The mushrooms had an interesting zip which apparently came from pickled marrow. A Sicilian red, Calabretta Etna Rosso 2001, was proffered, which had notes of leather, spice, earth, and nice tannins and acid.

There was at this point a cheese offered, which I think was from Vermont. However, after 9 glasses of wine I apparently neglected to take a picture and the details of said cheese (and the wine I had with it) are marooned in the foggy depths of my brain somewhere. I remember it was good, though (well, duh) and that there was a wheel of it sitting by the counter as I ate it.

On to desserts. The first was a “white rose” with wild flower sherbet. I don’t know what the rose was made of, but the plate was clean tasting and palate cleansing. It was served with a sparkling Muscat, Clairette de Die “Cuvée Impériale” from the Rhône Valley, which was zesty and creamy with some citrus and lychee.

Then came a perfect slice of peach with sunflower toffee ice cream which was whimsically molded to perfectly resemble a peach pit, which was placed on top. I could only shake my head in disbelief.

“Who thinks of these things?” I mused aloud.

“That man right there,” pronounced one of my servers, indicating Chef Lightner.

Indeed.                                          

Coffee was offered, and I chose a Cerro Azul coffee from Colombia, which was roasted by a small batch producer in Massachusetts, I believe.

A few final courses to make the meal complete – a strawberry shortcake with wild strawberries and clover leaves (I used to eat clover leaves out of my parents’ yard as a kid and the zingy taste really took me back), a “churro” made of salsify, which tasted like the regular, chewy, delicious, cinnamon crusted dough version,  a bourbon cask ice cream sandwich, with almond, vanilla, and oak, which was sweet, woodsy, and delicious, and some chocolate truffles, one of which was shaped to look exactly like a black walnut. A final pairing with the Rare Wine Company’s Boston Bual Madeira, perfumed of orange peel, clove, and toasted nuts, was a fabulous way to end the night.

As I made to leave, I spoke with sous chef Victoria Blamey to congratulate her. I would have done so with Chef Lightner as well, but he had retired for the evening as he had an early trip to market to make in the morning.  Clearly, this was without a doubt one of the most ambitious, well executed, and dazzlingly creative meals I have ever had. I don’t know if Matt Lightner is destined to join the colossi of New York dining, but based on what I experienced here, it wouldn’t surprise me one bit. I certainly hope he succeeds and that he continues to innovate. As John Stuart Mill once said, “That so few now dare to be eccentric marks the chief danger of our time.”  

Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue

New York City

So it was that my first meal in New York in 3 years was destined to be at Eleven Madison Park, that temple of Gotham gastronomy which seems to be nearly universally adored (at least, according to what I had read). I was moved to buy a copy of Daniel Humm and Will Guidara’s EMP cookbook (or, as some have described it, an art book with recipes) a few months ago which only served to stoke my desire to have a meal there. As I walked into the soaring room on a bright and sunny day I couldn’t help but feel a certain frisson of excitement as I was greeted like an old friend by the maître d’ and escorted to my table with a commanding view of the room.

Having made my choice and opted for the full tasting menu with wine pairings, and assured the staff I had no allergies or aversions to anything culinary, I was delighted to have a small box tied with string placed in front of me. Inside the box, I was told, was a take on a New York institution, the black and white cookie, which would serve as the first amuse of the day. This was no ordinary black and white cookie, but rather an explosively savory version encompassing black truffle, parmesan and crème fraîche on beautifully buttery pastry. The meal, it seemed, was off to a flying start.

As a firm believer in starting a great meal with bubbles and thus having chosen a Bérèche et Fils Brut Reserve Champagne to start, I settled in for the parade of amuse courses to follow. First to arrive was a tomato tea containing a “teabag” of lemon thyme and thin crispy pieces of parmesan lavash. The tea was intensely redolent of herbs and tomato and made a nice accompaniment to the crispy and nutty parmesan flavor.

Following was a delicious “lollipop” of curry, dried lentils, and creamy yogurt and a chickpea panisse which tasted faintly of lemon, and my favorite amuse, a stunning sabayon of smoked sturgeon in an eggshell. The buttery emulsion, delicately smoky chunks of fish, and intense chives and chive oil in the bottom of the shell were a fantastic combination. I could have eaten twenty of them.

It was at this point that I was asked, “Would you be interested in a visit to the kitchen? We have a course prepared that we’d like to serve you back there.”

Why, yes. Yes, I would be interested.

In a slight daze I was accompanied back past the staging areas to the cacophonous kitchen space, where I watched the EMP staff work with uncanny precision surrounded by posters of Miles Davis and the poster of EMP’s values (take a look at the cookbook if you want to see these; they’re in there). Led to a single place setting, I had the entire kitchen’s operation explained to me while the course, an edible cocktail, was prepared. Now, I’ve made kitchen visits before; usually it’s a perfunctory one at the end of a meal to shake the chef’s hand and say a few words. This, though, this was something entirely other. The care taken to answer my questions and give me a behind the scenes picture of a 3 Michelin star operation was extraordinary. And the course was delicious too, a Jack Rose cocktail of pomegranate frozen in liquid nitrogen, Grenadine syrup, and Calvados brandy. I appreciated this foray into the kitchen occuring toward the beginning of the meal – often these visits occur at the end of a long wine pairing when I’m a bit, um, tipsy.

Returning to the dining room, a wonderful flaky and warm pair of bread rolls was proffered, along with cow’s milk butter, goat’s milk butter, and sea salt.

The New York theme continued with EMP’s deconstruction of a Long Island clambake. A ceramic pot surrounded by rocks draped with seaweed was placed before me, along with a bowl containing clams with a succotash of chorizo and a parcel wrapped in banana leaf, which turned out to be a small, moist piece of zucchini bread. The rocks around the pot were heated and as seawater was poured on them steam rose up smelling fragrantly like the seashore. Finally, sweet and intense corn chowder was revealed as the content of the pot. Chef Humm has apparently stated that this, or a variation of it, is one of the meals he would prefer to make for a James Beard dinner (two others are the egg cream and his take on New York style cheesecake, descriptions of which are forthcoming). Paired with the course was a malty, lightly hoppy, and fruity Saison Deluxe ale from Southampton Ales and Lagers – a fine accompaniment to the slightly unorthodox clambake.

The next course was couscous, smoked with tomato, yogurt, and a powder made from taggiasca olives. As one might expect, this course immediately evoked the Mediterranean, and was paired very nicely with a glass of 2011 Bandol Rose from Domaine de Terrebrune (a blend of Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Grenache. The wine was beautifully minerally with a hint of strawberry.

Following this was a foie gras terrine cured with black sesame, gem lettuce, and a small slice of duck prosciutto. I’m actually not normally a fan of foie gras done in this way, but the dish had a nice balance to it, the black sesame and pepper crust adding a savory note to go along with the unctuousness of the foie and the bitterness of the greens and saltiness of the duck completing the picture. There was also a soy component in the black puree on the plate which was very interesting and created quite the umami overload when tasted along with the foie. The wine that went along with this course was a 2010 Domaine Jamet Côtes du Rhône Blanc, mostly Marsanne with some Viogner and Rousanne, focused, tart and apple-y with a hint of spice. Evidently EMP thought enough of this wine to buy the entire 10 cases allotted to the United States. It was delicious.

It was about this time that I noticed Chef Humm making his rounds of the dining room, greeting every table. We chatted briefly and I complimented him on the experience thus far; he humbly accepted the accolades and wished me a good meal. Again, I found this a wonderfully personal touch.

Back to lunch, then, and a caraway gnocchi with whey, fresh curds, and spring herbs. This was intensely vegetal, but the richness of the gnocchi tempered the herbaceousness and at the bottom some beautifully charred fiddleheads lent a smoky hint to what was a fantastic assemblage of flavors. A glass of Lieu Dit Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Tyler Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley was poured with this. It was very much a lean Sancerre style sauvignon blanc and really lifted the herbal qualities of the dish.

The next course was a black bass with pine nuts and various grilled mushrooms, served along with dollops of caramelized onion inside an onion skin. I don’t remember all of the specifics of this one and it was misidentified on the menu I was given as a lobster course. Nevertheless, it was delicious, the earthy mushrooms and the sweet, mild flavor of the nuts working well with the mild taste of the fish. The wine that was paired with it was, to the best of my recollection, a 2002 white Rioja, the Vina Gravonia from Lopez de Heredia. It was the richest wine served yet, with vanilla notes from oak aging and apple and beeswax notes which held up well against the robust mushrooms and onion.

The last course proper before dessert was a fatty, gorgeous piece of roasted lamb roasted with artichokes, freekeh (a Middle Eastern grain) and spring onions. The sommelier was aware of my love for red Burgundy and offered a glass of Pommard 1er Cru from Domaine de Courcel, Grand Clos des Épenots 2007 to go with it. Pommard wines tend to be rustic expressions of Burgundy – this wine had a hint of that but was more elegant and mineral driven than some Pommards I’ve had, with nice spice notes. It was a really nice match for the rich, slightly gamey flavor of the lamb.

As an interlude, we went on to the cheese course, which featured two pieces of chevre from the same producer, Rainbeau Ridge in West Bedford, NY. One was more aged than the other and as such had a slightly bitter and more complex taste, but both were grassy, creamy, and lovely. They were served as part of a delightful salad of greens, strawberries, pistachio, and garlic. Rounding out the course perfectly was a Chenin Blanc from Domaine aux Moines, the Roche Aux Moines Savennières 2010. This wine is only produced in the best years and its strawlike character worked wonderfully with the cheese.

On to dessert, and another very New York-centric offering - an egg cream made tableside by EMP’s Captain, Timothy Belaus. An egg cream, of course, contains neither eggs nor cream, but seltzer and milk (traditionally chocolate milk). EMP’s version was made with cocoa nib and orange flavoring and served as something of a refreshing palate cleanser.

This was followed by Humm and compatriots’ take on a New York cheesecake, containing goat cheese, fresh raspberry and chamomile, and then finally a chocolate sorbet with lavender, orange, and sea salt. Both were outstanding and had a great mix of savory and sweet elements. A final pairing with a Domaine La Tour Vieille Banyuls, 2009, a fortified wine done in a port style, completed the meal proper.

Coming full circle, a final mignardise: a sweet black and white cookie very different from the first and reminding me without a doubt what city I was in.

At the end of the meal, a final touch – a bottle of Guillon-Painturaud Cognac was left with the check and I was told to take my time and have as much as I wanted (I guess this is a standard conclusion to the tasting menu).

It’s hard to talk about this place without sounding completely fawning; however this was one of the best meals of my life, and at a very reasonable pricepoint considering what was offered. I was dumbstruck by the level of service, which is the best I’ve ever experienced – they made me feel as if I were the most important person in the world the entire time I was there. Bravo EMP – I shall be back.